PEACOCK, J., 1994. Costume 1066-1990s. Rev. ed. London: Thames and Hudson.
Fashion in Costume
NUNN, J., 2000. Fashion in costume 1200-2000. 2nd ed. London: Herbert.
Costume and Fashion
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The Gallery of Costume
4a
Bodice construction of dress, patterned muslin, 1803-5; back cut in three sections, centre 6in wide, sides including front and shoulder; linen lining with flaps to pin beneath bodice; bodice front joined to skirt, fastening with button on each shoulder and tie round waist; skirt open at top of side seams, fulness gathered to centre back; small bustle pinned with contemporary, separate-headed pins.
Dresses with bodice front and skirt in one are common 1800-10. Of thirty-seven examples, twenty are fastened in this away. Two other dresses, 1800-10 have small bustles.
4b
Shoes, 1800-10, printed kid, pink and black; short opening with ribbon tie over small tongue; thin wedge heel.
This thin wedge is the last vestige of the 18th century heel. A heelless style now persists until the middle of the century.
5
Day dress, 1807-10, white muslin, front panel of silk embroidery and embroidered hem; yellow silk spencer and bonnet; white swan-down trippet; white cotton gloves.
A more rigid vertical line appears after 1805. Spencers have appeared a few years earlier and will be fashionable for the next twenty. White dresses only are worn with coloured spencers or pelisses. Hats show great variety; a soft crown and stiffened brim appears in many forms. Long tippets are carried 1803-8 and again in 1814 and 1830.
13
Chemise, dated 1825, linen, neck with drawstring and lawn frill.
Under widening skirts, underwwear can once more increase bulk. Scanty underwear only-a chemise, stays and a light petticoat-was worn 1800-20.
14a
Stays, 1815-25, white cotton, five main sections, with gussets at breasts and hips; narrow boning, cane or whalebone; removable busk (original missing); back lacing with eyelet holes sewn over rings; piped, and stitched with cream silk.
Stays were not generally abandoned but show more flexible construction and make no assault on the waist until the late 1820s.
14b
Drawers, 1820-35, white lawn, legs open on inside; lacing across back to fasten in front; button fastening on leg.
Drawers were probably not yet generally warn. The open leg form persists to the end of the century.
Four Hundred Years of Fashion
VICTORIA AND ALBERT MUSEUM. DEPT. OF TEXTILES AND DRESS, 1984. Four hundred years of fashion. London: Victoria and Albert Museum in association with Collins
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